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Yellow Mountains

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Yellow Mountains - (Huangshan Mountains)

You say you've never heard of it? Me neither until I booked a trip there in 2001. But this is one of the most popular attractions in China for the Chinese.

If your are a backpacking/sightseeing type of person, this might just be up your athletic alley. Those that are not in good physical shape need not apply. Basically you put on a backpack and hike up the eastern side of the mountains along stone steps 4-5 hours to a hotel on the top of the mountains, then wake up to watch the sun rise above the mountain range, then hike 8-9 hours down (I'm using the term "down" loosely here as it's still steeply upward a lot too) the western side of the mountains, along various trails of stone steps. If you enjoy hiking through mountains and camping, you'll absolutely love this trip to the max! The sights are unbelievable - if the weather is good, as it was when I went there.

There is a daredevil's bridge section that I never found, with a walk over a thin mountain top with sheer cliffs on ether side and a simple handrail to steady your hike. There are many passes to take along the way, and I sorely miss not having found that route.

For those that lose their leg strength, there is a cable car on the western side that will shave probably four or five hours off the nine hour hike. Given what I know now, I'd probably jump on the cable car, as the scenery doesn't get better as you descend.

If the weather holds out and you're in good shape, you'll no doubt come home with wonderful memories of the mountain views, as well as a better understanding of the abilities of the human body to continue the hike. If the weather turns rainy, and the clouds roll in around you on the mountain, and visibility drops to three feet . . . well, just hope that doesn't happen.

The Chinese people are in good physical shape. You'll have 60-year-old people passing you most of the way. Consider it incentive to keep moving. If you want to pay the fee, you can be carried like a king up and down the mountain. There were more than a few people who did that on my trip.

If you don't like crowds, you're out of luck. The trails are as busy as a summer beach. Always book your hotel ahead of time or risk sleeping on the cold mountains. Heavy jackets are provided in your room by the hotels so you can venture out after dark.

A word about hotels in rural China. Make certain whoever books your hotels specializes in China travel. Hotels will sometimes refuse your reservations saying they can't find your name listed in their reservations book and have no more rooms available. If your savvy travel agent has prepared your itinerary and included a local telephone number on it to show the Chinese hotel desk staff if there is a problem, you will find a room suddenly appear for you. If your travel agent cannot give you such paperwork, you're on your own and may end up sleeping under the stars. So find a travel agent who also knows or deals with local Chinese travel agents, who in turn can work the kinks out for you if things go sideways.

This is another reason why China still gets a "C" grade for infrastructure.

Click HERE to open up a new browser window showing a site on the Huangshan Mountains

My hotel list along the way through the Huangshan Mountains:

Huangshan International Hotel
Fun Factor - Basic but the best of the rural bunch
Warmth of Staff - Pleasant
Hot Water - Yes
Food - Don't ask

$90 a night. The Huangshan International Hotel has hot water, or did when I was there, and I found it to be a nice but very basic hotel. I'd recommend it.

Located in the Tunxi province of China, it's a nice hotel as rural China goes. Be forewarned that once you leave the major Chinese cities behind, you leave decent food and quite often hot water behind you as well. The best way to prepare yourself for the realities of rural China is to think of it as an overseas camping trip. If you end up with a comfortable bed - enjoy it, don't expect it. If you find hot water in your bathroom, enjoy it while you can. Find good food? Stuff yourself, for it may be a few days before you find more like that.

Don't go to rural China for anything more than breathtaking views, ancient history or for a true cultural experience. Do not expect the comforts of home. Expect . . . camping, and it will be a rewarding experience.


At the top of the mountain I stayed one night at the Western Sea Hotel (or Xi Hai Hotel in Chinese). $136 a night and no hot water!!!!!!
Fun Factor - Basic
Warmth of Staff - Robotic
Hot Water - No
Food - Don't ask
Tea - The best cup of tea I ever tasted (truly!) but it cost $9. Tea, flowers and nuts were picked from the mountain and steeped at my table. Was the tea really worth $9? Yes. But I was starving at the time so maybe that doesn't count.

I find it amusing that they have hot water for $9 tea, but no hot water in the showers for those who just hiked 4-5 hours straight up the mountain. Camping. Look elsewhere for accommodation on the mountaintop.


At the bottom of the mountains (Western side of the mountain after a nine hour hike) I stayed at the Peach Blossom Hotel. For $78 a night you get hot water and a decent room.
Fun Factor - None
Warmth of Staff - Robotic
Hot Water - Yes! Ahhhh yes!
Food - Don't ask

All things considered I'd recommend this hotel.

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